Paramotor Communication

Introduction

If you thought your Bluetooth walkie-talkie radio was going to work with your brand new motorcycle headset, you will be disappointed. I tested several different Bluetooth headset and radio combinations, and with the exception of only one or two, none of them worked as expected!

The following page started as a recommendation to my local flying group, but I spent so my time figuring things out it something surely will be helpful to the rest of the paramotor community.

TL;DR

To talk with other paramotor pilots we use three types of radios types:

Bluetooth Intercom
A Smartphone
A Handheld Radio

The Bluetooth Intercom is a very low power headset-to-headset radio connection. This is either a traditional Bluetooth intercom connection, or one of the newer Bluetooth Mesh connections.

A Smartphone is a 5G/LTE radio connection. It relies exclusively on a network of cell towers. The phone radio is also low power and it is necessary that you are somewhat close to a tower.

A Handheld Radio is high power. This works at such great distances it supplements the other two.

Here is what works and when:

Stay connected 100% of the time: Handheld Radios.
Stay connected only within one farm field of each other: Bluetooth Mesh.
Stay connected only when near town: Phone or Conference Call.
What almost never works: Bluetooth Intercom.

What to Buy (For My Local Flying Group)

We want everything connected to our headset with Bluetooth. Motorcycle headsets can connect to all three of these radio types simultaneously. However, since most handheld radios do not connect well or at all with Bluetooth (a major problem) the options for a complete working system are very limited.

Currently the recommended setup is:

Bluetooth Headset: Cardo Neo or Cardo Edge ("DMC" Bluetooth Mesh)
Aviation Radio: Icom A16B or the Wouxun KG-R86 (with Adapter A)
Walkie-Talkie Radio: Any number of $40 radios (with Adapter A)

Why is This List So Limited

The newest Mesh motorcycle helmets require the newest Bluetooth devices. These can connect to two devices and operate a Bluetooth intercom connection all simultaneously. But this requires a higher level of compatibility from the connected Bluetooth devices.

If you want to see how it should work, connect two new smartphones to your headset as "First Phone" and "Second Phone". Play a music app on one, then make a phone call on the other. The phone playing music will pause, wait patiently for the phone call to finish, the it will restart the music.

Now connect a handheld radio as the "Second Phone". Play music on the phone, then transmit with the radio (which is similar to making a phone call). The radio will not kindly request that it has access to the headset, it somehow just disconnects the first phone! When the radio is finished, the first phone has to reconnect. And it has to reconnect every time you use the radio! And the music app? It is just stopped in the background.

And that is if you can get the radio to connect at all. The Sena 60S is so particular that it made no satisfactory connection with any radio, not even the Icom A16B. This is why we started using the Cardo Neo/Edge. The Cardo products are not perfect, but testing showed they connected to older devices a bit better.

I am sure in a few years radios will catch up and this will be fixed. Right now radios are a limiting factor. But we still need them. Bluetooth Mesh is great but it disconnects at the distances we fly from one another. A phone connection is great but phone coverage is not complete in the rural areas we fly in. We need radios to fill in these gaps.

What do I Mean by a "Radio"

On this page I will call a Handheld Radio by a few different names. This is meant to indicate which frequency they are set up for.

A "Walkie-Talkie" typically use FRS/GMRS frequencies (462 MHz) at a lower power (a 1/4 watt to less than 5 watts). For paramotor flying this is all we need.
A "Ham Radio" uses amateur radio frequencies (such as "70-centimeter" or "2-meter") at a higher power. These are meant to communicate at great distances.
An "Aviation Radio" can transmit on official aviation frequencies. These are basically extremely overpriced AM walkie-talkies.

It is now quite common for a $40 5-watt handheld to transmit on GMRS, many of the amateur frequencies, and listen to aviation frequencies. I will still call this a "Walkie-Talkie" and I expect that this is what we will have have at this point.

My hope is to find an "Aviation Walkie-Talkie", one radio that transmits on everything... fingers crossed.

This page was written in November 2025. Technology changes quickly. If you find anything that needs updating, please let me know!

Introduction
TL;DR
The Really Really Long Version
Other Considerations

The Really Really Long Version

I fly paramotors with friends. And even if I did not I sometimes fly near airports. Having a good way to communicate is important. Well, by voice... you can always wave or wiggle your legs; it is not the same. You need to be able to talk: "Independence Traffic, ultralight activity, two miles north", or "Watch those power lines!" or "Hey, let's go chase that kid on the motorcycle!".

You want to be able to communicate. Being able to talk with each other while flying just makes it better: Imagine you are in a car with three other friends for an hour. But you are NOT allowed to talk, listen to music, or play with your phone. This only happens when everybody is asleep or mad at each other. Why flying, being only able to wave at each other feels the same way.

Fly with at least a phone. If you get into trouble you will need to call help. Better yet, also carry a radio. Phone service is not available in rural areas and a radio is a great alternative. Chatting with other pilots in your gaggle is easiest with Bluetooth Mesh intercom but radios have better range.

We are paramotor pilots with specific needs.

What We Really Want

Connect without wires.
Connect to our phone (phone calls, music, flying app).
Connect to an aviation/ham/etc. radio.
Connect to each other with Bluetooth Mesh.
Have it not be Aviation Expensive.
Have it just work without hacks, 100% of the time.

Unfortunately, as paramotor pilots we have very few choices! This is due to the fact that we are not their target market. We are surely less than 1% of 1% of 1% of the people that buy these products:

Motorcycle riders only connect with one phone, and maybe intercom a couple of others.
Even the best Bluetooth Mesh does not reach the distance at which we fly from one another.
Aviation equipment is an expensive wired obsolete environment.
Walkie Talkies are used while walking/hiking/camping and holding the unit in the hand.

Our needs are outside the typical use cases. So our list of equipment combinations that work for us is very very short. We are in a transitional technology period for some of this equipment (like when we switched from flip-phones to smart-phones). Ten years from now all headsets and radios will Bluetooth connect seamlessly, but that is not the case today. So of all of the options out there, there are only a couple of combinations that work for us.

At this point, see the list in the TL;DR above.

What to Buy Explained

If you want to connect on Bluetooth Mesh, we all have to have the same Mesh. Different Mesh types are not compatable. So, get a Cardo Neo or a Cardo Edge:

Cardo Neo: Basic helmet base, get this on a budget.
Cardo Edge: Cool magnetic helmet base.
Skip the Cardo Pro, it has features you will not need.
All three are Cardo "DMC" Mesh compatible.

If you just want a phone and a radio connection, just get the cheapest helmet headset. If you are on a budget this is a great solution, but expect to be left out all Mesh conversations:

Cardo Spirit (or whatever entry level Sena).
A radio as listed above.

I really recommend having a radio. Choose one radio, the same type as everyone else that day:

Aviation Radios allows us to talk with ATC, around airports, and to our PPC friends.
Walkie Talkie Radios are cheaper and allows us to talk with a larger audience.
Either will provide the best connection at distance in rural areas.

If you do not have any radios kit yet, then get:

Adapter A.
A basic Ham/GMRS Radio: Baofeng UV-5R Mini on Amazon.
The cheapest Aviation Radio: Wouxun KG-S74A on Amazon.
If you already have the Icom A16B, then just use that.

Did you get a Sena 60S because of some YouTube video?:

Will connect only with phones.
Will NOT connect with radios.
You can Mesh, but only with other Sena 60S's.
Not to our group.
Not to other Cardos.
Not to other Senas (unless you downgrade).

Setting-Up The Recommended List of Equipment

On the headset, pair the phone as "First Phone" and pair the radio as "Second Phone".

You can not use both "Phones" at the same time. They take turns. Using a "Phone" means making a phone call, receiving a transmission from the radio, streaming Spotify, pushing a button where the device sends a "beep".

On the Cardo app > Settings > Advanced audio settings > Two-way radio integration > On.

This puts the radio as "Second Phone" at the same priority as the "First Phone".

On your phone > Settings > Sound & vibration > System sounds > Tap & click sounds > Off.

Otherwise every time you push a button on your phone it will interrupt everything else.

On the Icom A16B (or any radio) > Settings > Bluetooth > HSSET > Auto.

You only want the radio to stream Bluetooth audio when it receives a transmission. Otherwise it will stream continuously interrupting everything else. If your radio does not have this option, do not use that radio.

On your phone > Settings > Security > More Security > Extend Unlock > Trusted Devices > Add your helmet.

Once connected to your helmet and unlocked, the phone will stay unlocked. While flying, unlocking your phone every time you need is a pain!

Understanding Volume on a Motorcycle Headset

The volume control is a bit complicated. Here is my impression of how it works:

Your headset has to mix the volume of several different sources. So think of it this way: The volume knob on the headset does not control the speaker volume, it changes the input level of the current streaming source. So if you are listening to the internal FM radio, the volume control will change the input level of the FM radio, but not the intercom, the connected phone, or the connected walkie talkie. If you are listening to the intercom, it changes the intercom level. Etc.

The volume control for the phone is similar and creates another level of this. If the phone is active, then the volume control of the headset makes a request to the phone to change the level of whatever the phone is streaming. The phone has different levels for a phone call, music, the ring volume, an alarm, etc.

From the headsets point of view, the volume control for a radio is requested in the same way. When you turn the volume dial on the headset, the headset requests a change in level from the radio. But since the radio has a physical knob, nothing happens. So you have to change the volume on the radio with the knob.

On top of all of this, the Cardo app will have defaults for some of these under Settings > Audio settings > Volume levels.

It is complicated. Work all of this out at home. It takes time to learn. Two minutes before you take off is not the place or time.

Communication Breakdown

Our flying group tried many different options. Basically all of the options. Here are the pros and cons of each:

Phone call

When this works, it works well. But only in an area with coverage.

Great sound.
Distance unlimited.
Requires phone coverage.
Always on microphone.
Two people only.

Phone group call

A phone call, but put the first person on hold, then dial another person, then get both of them on the line.

Same as above, but with more than two.
Not worth the pain of the process.

Phone app conference call

Zoom, WhatsApp, Signal, Discord, Skype, Teams, etc.

Good sound.
Distance unlimited.
Requires data coverage.
Always on microphone.
Almost unlimited participants.
A little more work to get started.
A pain when you disconnect and have to reconnect.

Standard Bluetooth intercom

The basic intercom integral to the helmet system.

Nope. No way. Not enough distance for a paramotor.

Mesh Bluetooth intercom

The proprietary intercom integral to the helmet system.

Good to poor sound.
Distance is mediocre. Good for flying in a gaggle, but you lose anyone further than a farm field.
Always on microphone.
Almost unlimited participants.
Easy to start. Turn on headset, push one button.
Everybody has to be using the exact same Bluetooth Mesh.

Radios

Any frequency band. Similar results.

Good sound.
Distance is huge.
Push to talk microphone.
Unlimited participants.
Easy to start. Turn on headset, turn on radio, choose a frequency.

What Works and When

By yourself

Take at least a phone! I pulled a hamstring on a flight, could barely walk, and was able to call a neighbor to help me out of the field.
Take a radio; an aviation radio by an airport, a GMRS radio anywhere else. In the above example, if I had not had phone coverage, the radio would likely have allowed me to get help.

With one other person

If you have the same brand helmet system and fly close to each other: Mesh.
Otherwise, make a Phone Call.
If you don't have good cell service: Radios.

With three maybe four people

If you have the same brand helmet system and fly close to each other: Mesh.
Otherwise, make a Conference Call.
If you don't have strong data service: Radios.

With four or more people

Radios only. Any other choice has open microphones. With several people all continuously broadcasting their background engine noise, it quickly becomes an annoying problem.

Testing

The recommendations I have made above have been made from extensive testing of many available options. It is shocking how much equipment does not work as you would expect! My goal was to get our group to invest in equipment that works all of the time without everybody wasting a bunch of time and money.

So, you owe me a beer.

Several combinations of connecting a Bluetooth phone or radio to a Bluetooth headset were tested. Some of the equipment included:

The Cardo Spirit, an older entry level model.
The Cardo Neo, a newer model with Cardo's current Mesh intercom.
The Sena 60S, the flagship Sena model with their latest Mesh intercom.
A generic headset (SkullCandy Hesh 2) used as a sanity check.
Phones which were any number of current Android/IPhone models.
The two Icom aviation radios: A16B and A25N both with internal Bluetooth.
Two Wouxun radios: KG-UV86 and KG-R86 (basically the same radio) without Bluetooth.
The TIDRadio H3+ and the Baofeng UV5mini, both inexpensive Ham/GMRS Bluetooth radios.
Several walkie talkie Bluetooth adapters and remote Bluetooth PTT buttons.

A Bluetooth Adapter plugs into the wired microphone and speaker pins of the radio. These are usually not sold as a stand-alone dongle and are typically bundled with a Bluetooth earpiece. This provides a Bluetooth headset connection for a non-Bluetooth radio.

Why worry about Bluetooth Adapters:

There are very few Bluetooth radios...
In aviation, there are only three and two of them are huge.
Non aviation Ham/GMRS radios are similar; limited choices, AND...
Most of these do not have an actual functioning Bluetooth headset connection!

What I mean from the last point above is that they use Bluetooth to program stations using an app. Almost none of them work smoothly or at all with a headset! This confounds me!

What I Learned

Most phones use Bluetooth 5.

Most radios and adapters use Bluetooth 4.

The Sena 60S is not really compatible with Bluetooth 4.

With the Sena 60S: I got the Icoms to connect, but with a hack and they are problematic during a flight. I got one adapter to connect. Nothing else even connected. So: Avoid the Sena 60s (unless your friends all have a Sena 60S AND you never plan on connecting anything but a phone). It is too expensive, does not connect to radios consistently, their Wave app is buggy, and their mesh distance is not as good as advertised.

The Cardo Mesh models (Neo/Edge/Pro) work better with Bluetooth 5, but will connect with Bluetooth 4. I assume that the older Sena models might be similar, but these were not tested.

There are very few Bluetooth radios that function as intended. Most commonly the radio's PTT button activates only the radio's internal microphone and not the headset microphone. This is unacceptable. Our headsets do not have their own PTT, we have to be able to use the radio's PTT.

Bluetooth Adapters seem to be a great alternative. It provides us more radio options. However, even then there are only a couple of adapter choices. This is exhausting!

If you NEVER plan on using a Mesh intercom, then go for the cheapest basic Bluetooth headset. Even the most basic will connect to a phone and a radio simultaneously. The Cardo Spirit works very well.

Only choose an aviation radio (Icom A16B, Icom, A25N, etc.) if you need to talk with ATC, other aircraft, or if that's what your buddies are using. Otherwise, a non-aviation radio will not only communicate on Ham/GMRS frequencies (more people listening, better in an emergency, better for chatting) but can listen to aviation frequencies (which helps you avoid traffic). Non-aviation radios are actively being upgraded and improved. Aviation radios have a tendency to be antiquated, problematic, and expensive.

Opinions, Suggestions, Dad-splaining

Aviation Tech is Garbage

I live in the world of general aviation. Aviation stuff works, and it works with other aviation stuff, but it is horribly antiquated. An aviation headset, with those huge dual plugs (officially the PJ-055 and PJ-068)... not the choice for a paramotor. I have a set of David Clarks. Nice in a Cessna, but that's about it.

The worst part about aviation communication is that they are still using AM radio modulation. They started using AM a century ago because they were limited by technology. The problem: AM picks up every little RF noise. On a paramotor, the spark plug is right behind you! FM is better.

Not to be political, but aviation is burdened by the certification requirements of the FAA and FCC. Any equipment update they would otherwise provide requires a review and re-certification. So updates do not happen. New technology is not available.

Aviation equipment is obsolete and overpriced. If you can: skip aviation equipment.

Motorcycle Headsets

Motorcycle headsets typically have some sort of noise canceling microphone, can connect to a couple of Bluetooth devices simultaneously, and can connect with each other on their own. They are small, light, and are kits that can be fitted into most any helmet.

There are two major vendors: Sena and Cardo.

This now becomes an IPhone vs Android, Coke vs Pepsi, Ford vs Chevy conversation.

I ride motorcycles. I own both brands. My limited experience is this: Sena seems to be the more known of the two brands. Why? Better advertising, been around longer, I don't know why. Some guys will simply say "Sena" when they mean motorcycle-Bluetooth-helmet-system. Cardo seems to be the little guy. This is probably not true, but they seem to be working harder like the little guy. Here is my versus list:

Sena

Apparently higher end.
Apparently more features.
A bigger badder Bluetooth Mesh intercom system.*
You can swap out the covers to color-coordinate.
It comes in a really nice box!

Cardo

A little more basic (their app isn't as polished).
Typically cheaper.
Great efforts to be compatible, even with Sena stuff.*
Dozens of videos on YouTube on how to get connected.
Efforts to connect with Bluetooth walkie-talkies.
Simple. Just works.

* The Cardo and the Sena Mesh intercoms are not compatible. This is a proprietary thing, not a standard Bluetooth thing. But even worse, the Sena Mesh version 3 is not compatible with their own version 2.

To me... Sena=IPhone and Cardo=Android. I am an Android guy.

When it comes to Mesh, pick what your friends already have. If you want to get connected with your friends, it is a lot easier when you all have the same equipment. And so now I own a Sena (but I do not expect to use it, see the Executive Summary above).

First Item - Connect a Phone

Duh. Who isn't going to connect a phone to a headset?! You want to make phone calls and listen to music and check your socials, particularly when you are flying.

Typically what we did first was connect our headsets to our phones, and then call each other. That works, but really only if you want to talk with one person. You make a group call, and one person drops, then they are gone until you start all over.

Well, if we can connect to our phones, then let's start a conference call! Then we can all be connected, and everyone can join or not at will. That works, but we hit problems there too.

Wait, This Thing Has an Intercom

The motorcycle headsets have two types of Bluetooth intercoms. The original one where you have to initial pair with each person. And the Mesh intercom where you just turn it on.

The original Bluetooth intercom works very similarly to any Bluetooth device connection. You pair, connect, and it works but only if you are pretty close. Once the link is broken, you have to manually re-connect. It really does not matter which brand you get, this Bluetooth connection is so standard that any brand/model will connect with any other brand/model.

The Mesh intercom tries to fix some of the limitations of the above. You just turn it on, and everyone on the same Mesh system becomes part of a connected network. Data (your voice) can be transferred greater distances because it received and rebroadcasted across everybody's devices. The two headsets at the extreme ends are connected thanks to the headsets in the middle.

So we tried the original intercom. Worked great on the ground getting set up. It worked when we took off, and then we lost each other and that was the end of that.

Then we tried Mesh. This works much better. But not perfectly. We stay connected the whole flight. But only half the time we can understand what the other person is saying. This is really annoying after a while.

Mesh Intercom Distance

The following is just a theory.

I think the way Mesh is capable of reaching a farther distance than a standard Bluetooth connection is simply in the firmware. To go further in any radio transmission, you simply slow down the data rate. By slowing down the data rate, what you transmit is of lesser quality.

With a standard Bluetooth intercom connection, once it reaches its distance limit, it does not slow down, it just disconnects.

With a Mesh connection, the headset creates smaller data packets by lowering the sound quality. It then can take more time at a lower rate to send those smaller packets.

Yes, the Mesh can stay connected for more than double a standard Bluetooth intercom, but the sound is horrible. I can tell you are speaking, but have no idea what you are saying.

AND, Sena and Cardo are simply sourcing their Bluetooth chips from other manufacturers. They are likely using the same Bluetooth 5.1 chips. Sena claims a further distance, but they probably got there by lowering the bar of what is considered "such bad sound quality that we have to disconnect".

In other words, do not fall for the distance hype! After you are separated by one farm field, regardless of what brand you are using, the sound sucks.

Radios

A Handheld Transceiver (HT radio) / Walkie-Talkie / Handheld Radio will easily transmit further than you can see. This is great when you lose your buddy in the distance. Or when you land off-site and do not have cell phone coverage. In my opinion having a radio in an emergency is as valuable as a phone.

An aviation radio means you can talk to ATC and other aircraft. And you can chat with your buddies if you don't mind sneaking onto one of the unused channels (aviation radios are not for chatting). The downside is that aviation radios typically only work on the aviation radio band. And if you go down in a remote area and do not have an airport nearby, then nobody else is listening.

There are several other radio bands for our use (band as in a range of frequencies set aside for a specific use, not as in "We are getting the band back together!") Ready? Here we go...

Amateur Radio 2 Meter
Amateur Radio 1.25 Meter
Amateur Radio 70 Centimeter
Aviation Radio
Marine Radio
Citizen Band (CB)
Multi Use Radio Service (MURS)
Family Radio Service (FRS)
General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS)

Amateur Radio

Also known as "Ham Radio" requires a license. This license requires a test. No big deal, but you can not just buy a radio and start talking (well, you can, but not legally). Amateur radio has an old habit of referring to a frequency band by wavelength. The practical side of this is that you have an idea of your antenna length. An antenna for "2 Meters" (as in a name, not an accurate measurement) will be over twice as long as one for "70 centimeters".

2 Meter (144-148 MHz FM): Popular. If you need to reach someone in an emergency your odds are good.
1.25 Meter (222-225 MHz FM): Almost unused. Nobody is listening (this could be a good thing).
70 Centimeter (420-450 MHz FM): Popular. Maybe more so than 2 Meters.

The other thing worth mentioning is that the FCC placed licensed-free bands right next to the Ham bands. so if you have an antenna and radio that works on a Ham band, it usually will work for the adjacent license-free band.

Aviation and Marine Radio

These are for specific uses.

Aviation Radio (108-137 MHz AM): Just below the 2 Meter Ham band. If you need to talk with airports you will need an aviation radio.
Marine Radio (156-174 MHz FM): Just above the 2 Meter Ham band. If you fly near a coast, in an emergency you might have better luck reaching the Coast Guard on a marine radio.

Radio Without a License

The FCC has a couple of bands set aside that do not require an operating license.

CB (26.965-27.405 MHz AM and FM): Just below the 10 Meter Ham band. Sure, I guess you could use this one. Traditionally the antennas were huge and the equipment large, but small handhelds with rubber-duck antennas are available. Plus, you get to say "Breaker breaker, this is Ghost Rider..."
MURS (151.82-154.60 MHz FM): Just above the 2 Meter Ham band. Low power, five channels. Completely unused. Tune into MURS and you will be the only one there.
FRS and GMRS (462.5625-467.7250 MHz FM): These share the same channels. Well, GRMS requires a license. These deserve their own sections...

FRS

Walkie Talkies!

Widely used everywhere: Camping, restaurant workers, hotel staff, daycares, hikers, adventure sports! I mostly hear the sign-turners on road construction. It is a low power radio service, but in the air the line-of-sight range should be huge.

This seems like the go-to for paramotor radios. The equipment is easily available, unless you need Bluetooth. And we do. Oddly, the FRS radio with Bluetooth is a specialty $200 thing. However...

GMRS

If Ham radio and FRS had a baby, it would be GMRS.

Some consider it "Ham Light". You need a license, but it is only a fee; no test. And your one license covers everybody in your family. It operates on FRS channels, but at higher power. You can use repeaters.

It is probably the most popular radio band. If I went down in a remote area, I would hope to have a GMRS radio. Somebody is always listening.

The equipment is small and light. They are cheap. However, if you need one with a Bluetooth that works with your helmet those $35 radios probably will not work. So, $100 maybe $200.

OK, do you need a license?? Sure. But every tractor on the farms have one of these radios, and I have never heard any call signs. If you want to talk on repeaters or with high power, get the license. If you plan on being a radio pirate, be a good neighbor and stay on channels 1 through 14. Let the Ham Light guys have 15 through 22.

If I Had Three Wishes

Wish #1: All devices use a compatible Bluetooth!

Now you get any radio/phone option with any headset.

Wish #2: All Mesh systems were compatible!

Now you do not have to choose between Cardo, Sena, or Sena "Super Mesh".

Wish #3: Bluetooth radio manufacturers would get their shit together!

If you make a "Bluetooth" radio, it better work as expected. Headsets connect. PTT buttons works...

Radio Manufacturers (Baofeng / TIDRadio) Please Fix the Following:

In your Bluetooth settings you have two options: Internal Microphone On/Off and Internal Speaker On/Off. Replace those (since they don't work anyway) with two menus:

MICROPHONE MENU

This menu selects the relationship between a PTT button and the active microphone.

PRIORITY. (this should be the default)

If a Bluetooth headset is connected, then all PTT buttons activate the Bluetooth microphone;
ElseIf a Wired headset is connected, the all PTT buttons activate the wired microphone;
Else all PTT buttons active the radio's internal microphone.

DEVICE. (this is how you have it now)

Each PTT button activates the adjacent microphone.
The BT PTT activates the BT mic.
The wired PTT activates the wired mic.
The radio's PTT activates the radio's mic.

BLUETOOTH. The Bluetooth mic is the forced choice.
WIRED. The wired mic is the forced choice.
RADIO. The internal mic is the forced choice.

SPEAKER MENU

Similar to the logic above, a received transmission will activate the following speakers:

PRIORITY.
ALL.
BLUETOOTH.
WIRED.
RADIO.

Easy!

If you would just send me your firmware, or make it open-source, it would be fixed lickety-split!

Hardware Details

Helmet Construction

I had a Cardo Spirit (entry level), now have a Cardo Neo (top shelf), and a Sena 60S (latest and greatest) mounted to similar Giro bicycle helmets. These are helmets as in "bump helmet" not as in "crash helmet". The helmet protects the back of your head from your paramotor frame.

Paramotor Communication

In both cases, I enlarged the area above the ear cups with a bench sander. The end of the sander is round, so I shaped the opening with that.

The ear cups are 3M Peltor X5P3. They are the deepest cups and are designed for low rumble type sounds. These are mounted using 6mm screws and wide tee-nuts. It is important to recess the tee-nut on the inside and have no screw sticking out past it. Nothing should poke your skull in the event of a "bump".

The wires are routed into the helmet through an existing opening, or one I drilled.

To get the wires into the ear cups, remove the ear pads, and then use a pneumatic cut-off wheel to cut a slot. It does a great job!

On the Cardo, I drilled a hole large enough for the mic to pass through and then hot-melt glued the base on the inside. Don't do this, it lets noise in. Just do it like this...

On the Sena, I drilled and riveted it. It is really important to use rivet backers (just small but correctly sized washers). Otherwise the rivets will just pull through the plastic ear cup.

Phone Bluetooth Connection

Turn on the headset. Push the pairing button. Pair with the phone. Done. If you can not do this, you need to look at your life choices.

You will typically pair your phone with the headset as the primary phone.

Radio Bluetooth Connection

You will typically pair a radio with the headset as the secondary phone, or the GPS. If you want both the phone and the radio connected simultaneously, one has to be primary and one secondary.

That's the theory. In practice, what a nightmare!

Radios are almost all flawed when trying to connected a Bluetooth headset. I guess the developers never thought that we would want this. Everybody wants this!

The following few sections are hopefully helpful in specific Bluetooth connection options...

Icom A16B (Aviation)

Obviously read the manual for basic Bluetooth setup. Make sure to set the following:

In the Main settings, you need to turn microphone source M.IN from Auto, the default, to Bluetooth.

When set to Auto it uses both the Bluetooth microphone AND the radio's internal microphone simultaneously. In other words, because the radio is mounted out in the breeze the internal microphone will pick up all of the wind and engine noise. That microphone needs to be disabled.

And every once in a while the microphone just stops working. It will transmit, but no sound. I changed it to Internal, then External, turned it off and on, and it only started working again after I set it to Auto. Once working, I was able to re-set it to Bluetooth. It seems to be a firmware bug.

In the Bluetooth settings Under HSSET select the audio connection option to Auto.

This only streams audio when there is a received radio transmission. If set to ALWS (always) you constantly hear an electronic background noise.

Recommendation: I would skip the Icom A16 (no Bluetooth), and maybe use the A16B if someone were to buy it for me.

The two pin connector is "Icom Aviation", impossible to find anything that plugs into it unless it's an adapter directly from Icom.
The Bluetooth version A16B is Bluetooth 4.2 so it is not fully or at all compatible with newer headsets.
When Bluetooth works, it works fine. Not flawlessly. A firmware update would easily fix a couple of complaints, but it's Aviation so it will never happen.
It is really expensive for what you get.

Icom A25N (Aviation)

Similar to the A16B you need to set it so it only uses the headset microphone:

Under Menu > Bluetooth > Settings > Headset Settings > Headset Function, set it from Normal, the default, to MIC.

You need to set it so it only uses the headset speakers:

Under Menu > Bluetooth > Settings > Headset Settings > AF Output, set it to HS Only.

Unfortunately, there is no way to set it so that it only streams audio during a received transmission. If connected it is connected constantly as an ongoing call. This will keep you from hearing anything from your other phone and potentially from the Mesh intercom.

Recommendation: I would skip the Icom A25N.

The two pin connector is "Icom Aviation", impossible to find anything that works with it other than from Icom.
The Bluetooth version A16B is Bluetooth 4.2 so it is not fully or at all compatible with newer headsets.
It is really really expensive for what you get.
It is just too big for paramotoring. Small, light, and basic is all you need.

Yaesu (Aviation)

I did not test any Yaesu radios. However:

Only the most expensive model, FTA-850L, has Bluetooth.
The FTA-860L uses Bluetooth 4.2.
Like the Icom, the pin connector is unusual and hard to find adapters.

Recommendation: For the same reasons as Icom, skip Yaesu.

Sporty's PJ2 (Aviation)

Not Bluetooth.
Uses AA batteries.
Aviation PJ plugs (The new version also has a 3.5mm headset).

Nope. Skip this one.

The Sporty's radios are manufactured by Rexon Technology in Taiwan. Rexon also has aviation radios, such as the RHP-535 and RHP-530E, but difficult/impossible to purchase in the USA. And, they are not notably different than anything on this list.

Wouxun (Aviation)

I think by adding Wouxun to the above list, that covers all of the available aviation radios...

The Wouxun KG-S74A is a non-Bluetooth radio. To use it, you will need an adapter.

Cheap: $160 on Amazon
Basic: Simplex only, LCD screen, no weather, just type in frequency.
Standard: Uses the common Kenwood-style two pin connector.

With the right Bluetooth adapter it's not a bad option.

I need to look into the Wouxun KG-Q376! An Aviation, Ham, and GMRS radio?!

QYT (Aviation)

One last one. Just putting this out there. If you go on EBay you can find the QYT KT-A16. It ships from China. Likely not even looked at let alone approved by the FCC/FAA. But it is just an AM walkie talkie so how can you screw that up? It's around $70 delivered. Good luck.

Sena 60S

We try to do everything all at once! You can not. I found the limit by connecting my phone as Primary, a radio as Secondary, connecting to my buddies using Mesh, and broadcasting all of that back to me with Sidetone turned on. Too much noise! And, the sidetone broadcast periodically stopped working in the right earcup (but everything else was fine) so, maybe a Sena firmware bug?

Turn Sidetone off. You know what you sound like.
Turn Background Sound to 100%. Otherwise, the radio volume (being a Secondary) is lowered behind the Mesh conversation (which is always on). I want to hear all radio calls!

Actually, I want the radio to interrupt everything else, but that is not an option with the Sena (it is with the Cardos: Settings -> Radio Integration -> On).

The Sena 60S and the Icom A16B connection is a pain! If the Icom does not connect when it tries to, it goes into a Bluetooth failure and just gives up. You have to turn it off and on and try again. It would seem that the Icom is looking for Sena to broadcast that it is available, which it doesn't, and the Icom will not advertise that it is available. So they just sit there not connecting... until the Icom gives up and quits.

Connecting the A25N is not much better. Both radios require a hack to initially get them connected:

Getting Connected...

The first is to have the Sena and your phone connected, and the radio off. Then turn off the Bluetooth on your phone. Then turn on your radio. The Sena freaking out looking for the phone then finds the Icom. Once connected, turn your phone's Bluetooth back on. Your phone reconnects. But the apps you had running on your phone are now all pissed off.
The second easier method. Turn on you radio first. The second it gets through its boot process, immediately turn on the Sena. It would seem they both start broadcasting availability once turned on, but only briefly. If you accidentally turn off your radio, turn the Sena off and start from scratch.

Staying Connected...

You need to periodically use the Icom A16B! If you do not, after a while it will just display TIMEOUT on the screen and lock up (a wonderful undocumented feature). You then have to turn off the radio and start again.

Being Connected...

When you are on Mesh: Music from your phone, a phone call, calls from your aviation radio, etc. is played simultaneously with the Mesh conversation. Oddly, the Sena 60S does not give you the option to share this on Mesh. You can hear both, but others only hear you.
If you are on a phone call: The radio will not interrupt the call. (I wish it did.) *
If you are playing music on your phone: The radio will interrupt. But, music will not start automatically, you will have to hit play again. Annoying if you receive a lot of radio transmissions. *

Connecting Anything Else...

The Sena 60S is disappointing when it comes to Bluetooth compatibility. More often that not, it will not connect to a device. Sure, it connects to a new phone, but not to almost every Bluetooth radio or Bluetooth adapter I tried.

The reason: THE SENA 60S IS REALLY ONLY COMPATIBLE WITH BLUETOOTH 5! So unless its brand new (and most aviation radios are not) too bad.

So Use Something Else

If I knew then what I know now: I would not get the Sena 60S. It is the MOST expensive option out there [Well it was, the price has dropped like a brick]. At that price point everything should work mindlessly and FLAWLESSLY. This is not the case:

Trying to connect a second radio was disappointing. You should simply turn everything on, everything just connects, and stays connected! Nope. Every other headset I have (I have tested half a dozen) works exactly like that. The Sena completely fails at this.
The Mesh works barely adequately. You may stay connected up to a mile, but you will not understand what they are saying.
The Wave app is garbage. It did not work in the field. It did not work in our living rooms.
There is a promise of optional noise-canceling earbuds. There is no available product.

Recommendation: I would skip the Sena 60S... Unless:

All of your flying buddies have a 60S, AND
You have a radio with a Bluetooth 5 adapter, AND
You have a understanding that any Mesh system is one farm field. No more.

Non-Aviation Radios (FMS / GMRS / Ham)

Lots of radio choices from Amazon. Whether its a Baofeng, Baofeng Tech (BTech), TIDRadio, Radiooddity, Midland, Retevis. These operate on bands other than Aviation. But because of this they are much cheaper!

The hard/impossible part is finding one:

That has Bluetooth and will connect to a third-party Bluetooth headset.
The ability to push the PTT button on the radio and then use the Bluetooth microphone.
While using the Bluetooth microphone, the radio's microphone is disabled.

So far, the only one I have seen that works for sure (thank you Cardo YouTube videos) is the Oxbow Renegade X. The company is in Utah and they serve the extreme outdoor sports communities. It's a $180 FRS walkie talkie. Add a remote PTT button for $30. It would seem they have partnered with Cardo since you can buy bundles on their website. However, reviews indicate that you need to repair it every time you turn it on.

Really?!

Many of the "Bluetooth" radios do not connect to a Bluetooth headset. If they do, only the headset speakers work. Some require you to use VOX (not an option with a loud paramotor) or buy a separate button. It difficult to find one where you can simply push the radio's PTT and activate ONLY the Bluetooth microphone.

So...

Use A Separate Bluetooth Adapter!

I cannot believe that every radio does not already come with Bluetooth included. But they don't. So concede and just get a radio without Bluetooth. Then, there are adapters which plug into the radio's two pin connector and then create a Bluetooth connection. It will turn any radio into a Bluetooth radio.

To be sure it works it should have it's own PTT talk switch (this activates the PTT feature on the pins which activates the microphone on the pins).
Alternatively you could just keep trying radio and adapter combinations until you find one that works. The issue is you do not know what action will happen when you press the radio's PTT with a headset connected. Sometimes only the headset microphone works (awesome), sometimes the internal microphone works (fail). If the radio's PTT button activates only the internal microphone, send it back!
A separate Bluetooth PTT button is an great option.
A Hack: Buy a dongle / PTT / earpiece combination and just do not use the earpiece. Bluetooth connect directly to your helmet! But this is a gamble. Here's what I found:

Bluetooth Adapter A

It is common for a product from China to be sold under several different and changing brand names. So I am just going to call this one Adapter A. It looks like this:

Paramotor Communication

This seems to be manufactured by Herda Radio (aka Herdt Radio). And it would seem if ordered from them the Bluetooth version is now 5.2! Unverified!

This one:

Cost $60+ Amazon, $40+ EBay.
Came with a Bluetooth earpiece (of which you do not use).
Has a PTT on the dongle.
Comes with a remote Bluetooth PTT.
Older Bluetooth 4.0 (maybe).

This is the only one I can currently suggest you try:

It has dongle which seems to universally connect with whatever third-party headset (BT4 compatible), it has a PTT function on the dongle, the dongle and the remote PTT charge by USB, it works well enough.

It comes in a Kenwood pin style (K1) which means it fits most Chinese radios. You can get a Motorola pin style (M1). If you have a Icom or Yaesu then it will not work.

And since they are hard to find here are the instructions:

Dongle power button

Long press to turn it On and Off.
When it is off, hold it for seven seconds to put it into pairing mode.
When it is off, hold it for 30 seconds to clear any Bluetooth pairings.
When on, a short press will toggle a PTT. Be careful not toggle it on a forget about it!

PTT button

It's always on (apparently it is a Bluetooth Low Energy device).
To pair with the dongle, put the dongle in pairing mode and just click the PTT a few times.

You can search the internet for "Bluetooth HB-6A HB-6B" and potentially find a cheaper kit with only the dongle and PTT. Be wary of the phishing websites you will find (they look like catalog websites, will take your money, but never send a product).

Bluetooth Adapter A Pryme

Similar to the unit above, Pryme Radio Products sells a line called PrymeBLU. These are Bluetooth adapters, made for almost any radio, with optional remote PTT buttons. It seems like a guaranteed way to go, but they are expensive: $120 for the dongle, $40 for the PTT.

I did not test these!

One issue commonly stated in the reviews that concerned me was that once connected, it makes a constant Bluetooth connection. So even if you are not receiving transmissions it will stream an empty call to the headset, and this keeps you from hearing anything from the other phone and potentially the Mesh intercom.

If you do and have success, please let me know.

Bluetooth Adapter B

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This one:

Cost $30.
Came with a Bluetooth earpiece (of which you do not use).
Does NOT have its own PTT.
Does NOT have or connect to a Bluetooth PTT.
Bluetooth 5.3!
However, it does not work with some radios/headsets.

It one was flying with the Wouxun KG-R86 with a Sena 60S. However, I could NOT get it to transmit loudly with a TIDRadio and a Cardo Neo.

This one MAYBE works with the right radio, but it will not have an integral or remote PTT.

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Bluetooth Adapter C

I really hoped that this one would work! It had mechanically the nicest dongle and PTT. Both charged with USB-C. This would have been my choice...

It will not connect with anything other than the included headset/earpiece.

This one is not an option.

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Bluetooth Adapter D

It will not connect with anything other than the included headset/earpiece.

Additionally, the PTT uses a replaceable battery. Nope.

This one is not an option.

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Bluetooth Adapter E

These are different.

These are from TIDRadio and are sold as programmers. Their intent is to Bluetooth connect to a computer and then like a serial cable they communicate with the radio to program stations, update firmware, etc. Compared to everything else, these were cheap, like $10 and $15.

The PTT will actually connect to the TIDRadio H3+ and work as a PTT, but it universally does not connect with all radios.
The dongle looked like it might work so I tried it. From a Bluetooth standpoint it unfortunately acts like a Server/Receiver/Headset and I need it to act like a Client/Emitter/Phone.

I knew they likely would not but I was hoping for a surprise. Nope.

These two are not an option.

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Wouxun

The Wouxun KG-UV86 (UHF / VHF ham radio) and the Wouxun KG-R86 (Aviation) are both non-Bluetooth radios. These worked perfectly with every connectable Bluetooth adapter I tried.

TIDRadio

The TIDRadio H3+ (unlocked, latest firmware, Rx 18 to 600 MHz, Tx 136 to 600 MHz) has integrated Bluetooth. For $35 it is exciting. However the PTT actions are a mess! The PTT only activates the radio's microphone. I could not get it to transmit with any adapter unless the adapter had its own PTT. It is great as a handheld, useless for paramotoring. Yo TIDRadio! Update your firmware and fix this!

Baofeng

The Beofeng UV5mini (UHF / VHF ham radio) is a non-Bluetooth radio. I tried it and sent back. I had some success with a Bluetooth dongle with its own PTT, but the PTT on the radio only activates the radio's microphone. Nope. Same problem as the TIDRadio above. Unacceptable.

Other Considerations

Acoustic Noise

Because they are designed for motorcycles, the microphones typically have some sort of noise canceling.

On most, including my Cardo, the microphone is actually two microphones. One points toward your mouth, the other faces outward (you can't tell, they are behind the foam). They both hear wind and engine noise, but one hears your voice more loudly. The microphone then simply subtracts what is common to both, leaving only your voice. It works fantastically. The downside is that it needs to be positioned correctly, or it doesn't work.

On my Sena, they apparently got tired of half-wits leaving bad reviews because the "microphone picks up all the noise" (yep, they couldn't figure out how to position it). So Sena went with a omni-directional mic (no noise canceling) and cancel noise using an algorithm in software. If the Sena hears the same sound for a while, it will just cancel it out. This doesn't work so well if you rev your engine. It take a second or so for the Sena to figure it out.

My solution was to simply make the microphone directional. I 3D printed a cover in the hopes it limits ambient noise.

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Radio Frequency (RF) Noise

To get an AM aviation radio to work well, you have to concern yourself with RF. With FM transmissions, not so much. But then again, aviation is not FM, it is garbage.

The biggest problem is the spark plug. So I shielded that. I took the spark plug boot off:

Slide the boot up the wire.
Remove the metal cap.
Slide the boot off of the wire.
It will require pliers!

With the boot off, I slid on a metal mesh shield. The edges were dressed with aluminum tape and zip ties. To ground it, I removed the rubber cover from the holding clamp (it's grabs the middle of the wire in the picture below). This clamp is mounted to the engine case just like the coil. Without a battery or some other large capacitor, this is as good as it gets.

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And, the tachometer uses an inductive pickup. It is basically the wire wrapped five or so times around the spark plug wire. This will not work wrapped around the shield. So scoot the shield back a bit and wrap the pickup around a little exposed wire. In the image above it is right next to the boot.

Not shown is my Stobe Wires. The stobes put out RF noise in the same fashion as the spark plug. But those I simply wired with shielded wire. Then grounded that to the strobe power source.

Optimizing the Antenna

I also remote mounted the antenna. It is not much further from the spark plug than it used to be, but at least it is oriented properly vertically.

One of the issues with connecting an antenna with coax is it needs a BalUn. From a current standpoint, the antenna is balanced (current flows equally in the element and the ground) and the coax is unbalanced (current only flows in the center element). If you don't stop it, the antenna will induce a current into the shield of the coax turning the coax into an antenna.

So you add ferrite cores to the outside of the coax next to the antenna. They suck up any skin effect (or whatever) current. I attached my Vector Network Analyzer (VNA) to the antenna. A Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) meter would work too. If you touch the coax with your hand and it changes the reading, the coax is an antenna. Add cores until this stops.

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If you have any questions, just let me know:

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